C4 not moving fluid to cooler! HELP (2024)

Dan74Bronc

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Loc.
Chandler, Az
  • Oct 28, 2012
  • #1

I just rebuilt my C4 myself, got it installed and all the cooling lines plumbed to the cooler. Took it for a drive and everything seemed fine, shifted all gears, didn't slip. Drove it to work the next day, about 9 miles, started smelling something hot, figured I got something on the exhaust pipes. Popped the hood to look, didn't smell anything but noticed the aux cooler I installed was cool, like ambient temp, not good. Worried about it all day while I was at work then drove it home slowly.

Today I pulled the line off at the cooler that comes from the forward port on the trans. Hooked a hose to it and started the Bronco, no fluid came out. Ran it for about 10 seconds like that.
I then pulled both lines from the trans and put a hose on one and blew thru it, air came out the other so the radiator and cooler path are clear. That leaves the trans itself. I must have done something wrong when I rebuilt it.
Any ideas what would cause no fluid to come out the port but still shift and drive fine?
Do I need to pull the trans or can it be repaired in place?
Thanks
Dan

Viperwolf1

Contributor

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Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,337
  • Oct 28, 2012
  • #2

Could be some dirt or gunk in the passage in the stator support. On a stock c4 that passage has two check balls and a spring that can easily get jammed up. I always remove them during a rebuild. You can try putting some air pressure into that front port to try to clear it out.

Other than that maybe the pump gasket is slightly out of place.

It's not good to drive like that because that rear return port lubes the entire rear half of the transmission.

Sent from my MOTWX435KT using Tapatalk 2

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Dan74Bronc

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Messages
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Loc.
Chandler, Az
  • Oct 28, 2012
  • #3

Thanks Viper, I'll shoot some air at it and report back.

I didn't intend to drive it like that it just turned out that way. I really hope I didn't ruin anything. It was my first attempt at rebuilding an auto tranny.

Dan

I don't remember two check balls and a spring. I'll look back at the Haynes manual I used.

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Dan74Bronc

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  • Oct 28, 2012
  • #5

I just had another thought. I replaced the bearing/bushing in the pump body, could misaligning that cause the problem I'm seeing?

Viperwolf1

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  • Oct 28, 2012
  • #6

No, not the bushing. These are not regular maint items, it wouldn't be covered in a book. The oil comes from the converter and passes by the input shaft. About 1/2 way through the stator support theres a hole that directs the fluid toward the outside edge of the support. The spring/balls are under an aluminum ball plug on the edge. You would have to remove the ball plug to get the balls/spring out. Then you can tap it for 3/8"-24 plug.

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Dan74Bronc

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Chandler, Az
  • Oct 31, 2012
  • #7

Well I pulled the trans today. pulled the front off and removed the pump assembly. I checked the ports for obstructions and the gasket for misalignment. Nothing. I can't find anything wrong, but I don't really know what I'm doing so that doesn't help.

I'm about to remove the ball and spring as Viperwolf1 suggested. Is there a way of testing for fluid flow without installing the trans in the truck and starting it?

I'll post some pics I took today, maybe someone here can spot something not right. The last photo is the bearing I replaced.

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Dbarnes72

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Mar 18, 2009
Messages
643
Loc.
Eastern Wa.
  • Oct 31, 2012
  • #8

That slot in the last photo needs to be oriented properly. Don't remember. I will look on my DVD but by then somebody will post proper orientation.

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Dan74Bronc

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Joined
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Messages
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Loc.
Chandler, Az
  • Oct 31, 2012
  • #9

Viperwolf1 said:

.... The spring/balls are under an aluminum ball plug on the edge. You would have to remove the ball plug to get the balls/spring out. Then you can tap it for 3/8"-24 plug.

I got the outer aluminum plug drilled out and removed a spring and one steel ball. There appears to be another deeper in the hole. I banged it on the workbench and picked at it but it's stuck. Any ideas how to get it out?

Yea, I think that's the root cause of no fluid flow. Thanks Viperwolf1, you were right on the money.

Thanks Dbarnes72, I really hope it got that bearing in correctly because it was a bear to install.

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Viperwolf1

Contributor

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Messages
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  • Oct 31, 2012
  • #10

Try to seal up the ends of the stator (where the input shaft goes) and blow some high pressure air into it. Don't point the ball at anything you like.

When you tap the hole go slowly. You don't want the plug to block the that other hole.

You want the front bushing oriented so the reservoir is at the bottom like this. This is a C6 bushing, its wider.

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Last edited:

Dbarnes72

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Messages
643
Loc.
Eastern Wa.
  • Oct 31, 2012
  • #11

Dan74Bronc said:

Thanks Dbarnes72, I really hope it got that bearing in correctly because it was a bear to install.

Take a look at Viperwolf's picture. I don't know how much of an issue it is, but it looks like the two are oriented differently.

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Dan74Bronc

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
928
Loc.
Chandler, Az
  • Oct 31, 2012
  • #12

Viperwolf1 said:

Try to seal up the ends of the stator (where the input shaft goes) and blow some high pressure air into it. Don't point the ball at anything you like.

When you tap the hole go slowly. You don't want the plug to block the that other hole.

You want the front bushing oriented so the reservoir is at the bottom like this. This is a C6 bushing, its wider.

Thanks for all your help Viper.
I have one more question I would like your opinion on. I have about 50 miles on this rebuilt trans and the fluid smells really burnt and there are black particles in it. Should I replace the clutches and bands or can I get away with flushing and cleaning it thoroughly.

Thanks.

Viperwolf1

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  • Oct 31, 2012
  • #13

I would take the rest apart and see what cooked. Clutches and bands may be ok if they didn't get too hot. They would have received plenty of oil. I suspect bushings at the rear (those that surround the output shaft) may have gotten pretty hot. The return oil is forced into the output shaft to lube those parts.

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C4 not moving fluid to cooler!   HELP (2024)

FAQs

How do you check the transmission fluid on a C4? ›

With fluid showing on the dipstick at or below the "ADD" mark, start the engine. With the engine at idle, check fluid level, which should be well below the ADD mark. With the engine at operating temperature, check the fluid level again. It should have expanded to the ADD mark.

How does transmission fluid get cooled? ›

Here's how your transmission stays cool: Whenever your engine is running, the transmission fluid gets pumped into the transmission cooler, which lives inside your car's radiator. As the transmission fluid passes through the radiator (inside those transmission cooler lines), it essentially gets bathed in coolant.

How do you check transmission fluid for coolant? ›

All you'll need is a hotplate and a clean pan. Just pour a small sample of the transmission fluid into the pan and put it on the hotplate to heat up. Transmission fluid will burn and smoke, but if the fluid's contaminated with water or coolant, it'll start to boil and spit.

How long is a C4 transmission dipstick? ›

Dimensions: The dipstick tube is 18 3/4in long and the overall length is 22in/55.88cm, fits for C4 Transmissions all CASE FILL style.

How do I keep my transmission fluid cooler? ›

However, don't fret: these tips will show you how you can prevent transmission overheating:
  1. Install External Transmission Coolers. ...
  2. Go Neutral from Time to Time. ...
  3. Check The Transmission Fluid Regularly. ...
  4. Add A Deep Pan. ...
  5. Change The Transmission Fluid On Time.
May 23, 2022

What is the best way to cool your transmission? ›

If you want to increase cooling capacity we recommend adding an auxiliary cooler. This way the transmission is being cooled by two different coolers; one with antifreeze and on through air flow. In very few cases the cooler for the transmission is located externally from the transmission.

Can low coolant cause transmission problems? ›

Unfortunately, when your coolant level gets too low it isn't able to properly execute this process and your transmission can overheat which may lead to expanding parts and excess pressure.

How do you check the transmission fluid on a Isuzu? ›

Remember these key steps: 1 Warm up your truck by idling for at least 15-20 minutes in park. 2 Check the fluid with a warm engine, not a cold one. 3 Raise the cab to access the transmission. 4 Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, and check the fluid level.

How do you check transmission fluid in park or neutral? ›

The vehicle should be in a specific gear (usually PARK or NEUTRAL) and on a stable, level surface. Open the hood and locate the transmission fluid dipstick. Remove the dipstick. The tip should be covered in transmission fluid all the way to the FULL indicator line.

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